You don't have to be a hippy to enjoy Pai, Thailand
Loads of our friends told us that we must go to Pai, so we did - and it turned out to be the most relaxing time we've had since starting our journey.
This post includes:
Mini buses seem to be the most popular option to get to Pai as it's not on the train route. You can fly as well, but I think the planes are those flimsy little ones, which scare me.
The mini bus takes about 2 hours and travels up the winding roads though the mountains where Pai sits on the other side. If you're lucky enough to get a mini bus driver that doesn't drive like a maniac, then you can take in the breathtaking views of the cloud covered mountains.
Tip: if you've got a sensitive stomach I would strongly advice you bring some travel sickness medicine or a plastic bag with you on the journey.
After going over a very thinly made and wobbly bamboo bridge, we realised that it wasn't the right way to our accommodation. After surviving that we saw what was our bridge, was no more. The only thing remaining was a sign saying 'no more than 5 people' - obviously 6 people didn't get that memo. After finding a more stable bridge, we arrived at our hostel.
The location of the Canary Guesthouse was super awesome, because it was far enough from town that you didn't hear it at night and close enough to walk to.
We had a little bungalow overlooking the river all to ourselves for only 400 baht (£9.45) a night - yes, that is all! OK you don't get AC, but you get a lovely bathroom that has a tree growing through it, which makes you feel like you're in a Herbal Essences' advert when you shower.
We loved Pai and the guesthouse so much that we extended our stay, which was really easy to do. The staff also helped us sort out our transfer to Chiang Khong for when we checked out.
I'd highly recommend this place for all the reasons I've said above. There's also a few other guesthouses around that area too.
The cool thing about Pai is that its got that really laid back, do as you please, vibe. There's no drama anywhere (possibly because everyone's high or in some deep meditation) and you feel like you're in ultimate chill mode. It's a bit like Glastonbury festival - without the stages and mud up to your knees.
Pai itself is rather small, but you've got everything you would ever need in it. You've got great little coffee spots that you can lounge in all day, great restaurants that serve local and western food, really buzzing bars, a night market, massages and yoga. Any type of person's kind of heaven - am I right?
Everything is within walking distance too so you don't have to worry about spending money on cabs. However, if you want to go to the nearby attractions like the waterfalls or Pai Canyon then you'll need to - or you can hire a moped at your pearl.
We had a great night at Jikko Beer, which is tiny bar that spills out onto the street. It has a wide selection of beers from local (on draft and in the fridge) to Belgian beers. Beer is a little pricer than normal Thai prices, but it has a great atmosphere and the owner is really chatty and makes sure you're always topped up.
After some beers, you can head next door to Pokbar bar and enjoy very cheap and VERY alcoholic cocktails.
There's also magic mushrooms available in some bars, if you're that way inclined. We even saw a group of 60-70 year olds on it!
The best one though was from the Veggie Pad Thai guy (that's not his name, I made it up). He had a little catering trailer with a massive wok in the middle where he could make up to 4 portions of pad thai at a time. It came with roasted banana and kidney beans, which I'd never seen in the dish before - it was simply amazing. For only 50 baht, you’d probably best to buy 2 or 3 at a time to save going back after you realise how delicious it is.
Our other favourite snack was spicy noodles with fresh coriander and crispy onion served in a bamboo leaf. That's what I love about Thai food, it's simple and packed full of flavour. This was only 10 baht for a decent portion - that's 24p!
For coffee, you've got loads of nice places to choose from.
Our favourites were:
Boomelicious Cafe is a great little coffee spot too that's great for breakfast, especially the eggs benedict and muesli with fresh fruits. The coffee is really good too and reasonably priced.
We went to a few good places, such as:
I had a trio of dips (baba ganoush, tahini hummus, beetroot remoulade) with pita bread which was really flavoursome. This was 120 baht (£2.82). The shakes are also really tasty, although the banana and coconut with an espresso shot smoothie is something to behold.
We got a little ill one day, probably due to us finely relaxing, so we wanted some home comfort food. I ended up getting some takeaway pasta from Baan Pizza, and it was just what we needed. For only 120 baht (£2.82) you can get pasta arrabiata or just plain tomato sauce. The pizzas were decent too.
I’d highly recommend Charlie and Lek’s for a cheap lunch or dinner. You get really decent portions for only 40 to 80 baht a pop. They also do thai cooking classes if you wanted to try your hand at making some of the dishes yourself.
Blossom cafe is located a short walk over the river from town and boosts the best smoothie I have ever had. No joke. The coca and banana is simply to die for.
There’s also Bom Bowls next door that do smoothie bowls and yoga classes (200 baht for a drop-in session). Unfortunately, when I went the classes weren't on for 2 weeks - typical! I soon got over my disappointed by having one of their delicious smoothie bowls though.
You’ve got:
I went to my first ever yoga class at Bodhi Tree Yoga. I messaged the place on Facebook to ask if any of their classes are good for beginners, and they responded promptly and suggested the morning alignment class for 250 baht (£5.88 for a 90 minute class).
The class didn't include loads of positions that made you tie yourself in a nots, which is what I imagined it to be. There was only 2 of us in the class too, so I didn't feel as embarrassed as I would in a larger class. This meant that I got a really great, personal experience from the teacher. It was all about really listening to your body and noticing your alignment and posture, and not taking things too far. Highly recommend this for beginners.
Over the course of 6 days we spent:
Chill, do some meditation, or just literally take a breather from life with a few beers with some fellow travellers.
Next stop: the Mekong River
 |
| A colourful welcome to Pai |
This post includes:
- how we got to Pai from Chiang Mai
- where we stayed
- what the atmosphere was like
- where we ate and drank
- things to do and see
- how much we spent
- overall impressions
Getting there
From Chiang Mai we took a mini bus that we booked via our hotel. It seemed liked the most convenient option because they pick you up directly from where you’re staying so you don't have to faff about in the heat carrying your bags. This cost us 403 baht (£9.48) for 2 people.Mini buses seem to be the most popular option to get to Pai as it's not on the train route. You can fly as well, but I think the planes are those flimsy little ones, which scare me.
The mini bus takes about 2 hours and travels up the winding roads though the mountains where Pai sits on the other side. If you're lucky enough to get a mini bus driver that doesn't drive like a maniac, then you can take in the breathtaking views of the cloud covered mountains.
 |
| We had one pit stop along the way - no Little Chef insight |
Tip: if you've got a sensitive stomach I would strongly advice you bring some travel sickness medicine or a plastic bag with you on the journey.
Where we stayed
We stayed at the Canary Guesthouse just over the river from town. |
| Our view and my feet |
After going over a very thinly made and wobbly bamboo bridge, we realised that it wasn't the right way to our accommodation. After surviving that we saw what was our bridge, was no more. The only thing remaining was a sign saying 'no more than 5 people' - obviously 6 people didn't get that memo. After finding a more stable bridge, we arrived at our hostel.
 |
| The 'not so safe' bridge |
The location of the Canary Guesthouse was super awesome, because it was far enough from town that you didn't hear it at night and close enough to walk to.
We had a little bungalow overlooking the river all to ourselves for only 400 baht (£9.45) a night - yes, that is all! OK you don't get AC, but you get a lovely bathroom that has a tree growing through it, which makes you feel like you're in a Herbal Essences' advert when you shower.
We loved Pai and the guesthouse so much that we extended our stay, which was really easy to do. The staff also helped us sort out our transfer to Chiang Khong for when we checked out.
I'd highly recommend this place for all the reasons I've said above. There's also a few other guesthouses around that area too.
Atmosphere
You don't have to be a yoga loving hippy to enjoy Pai - it's for anyone.The cool thing about Pai is that its got that really laid back, do as you please, vibe. There's no drama anywhere (possibly because everyone's high or in some deep meditation) and you feel like you're in ultimate chill mode. It's a bit like Glastonbury festival - without the stages and mud up to your knees.
 |
| A morning Monk |
Pai itself is rather small, but you've got everything you would ever need in it. You've got great little coffee spots that you can lounge in all day, great restaurants that serve local and western food, really buzzing bars, a night market, massages and yoga. Any type of person's kind of heaven - am I right?
Everything is within walking distance too so you don't have to worry about spending money on cabs. However, if you want to go to the nearby attractions like the waterfalls or Pai Canyon then you'll need to - or you can hire a moped at your pearl.
Food and drinks (and party)
Despite it being small, Pai is packed to the rafters with really cool bars, restaurants and cafes. |
| A sight for the eyes! |
Bars
All the bars you see are brimming with other travellers and locals, so making new friends is easy.We had a great night at Jikko Beer, which is tiny bar that spills out onto the street. It has a wide selection of beers from local (on draft and in the fridge) to Belgian beers. Beer is a little pricer than normal Thai prices, but it has a great atmosphere and the owner is really chatty and makes sure you're always topped up.
After some beers, you can head next door to Pokbar bar and enjoy very cheap and VERY alcoholic cocktails.
There's also magic mushrooms available in some bars, if you're that way inclined. We even saw a group of 60-70 year olds on it!
The night market
The night market has all sorts of cheap and yummy food to chose from.The best one though was from the Veggie Pad Thai guy (that's not his name, I made it up). He had a little catering trailer with a massive wok in the middle where he could make up to 4 portions of pad thai at a time. It came with roasted banana and kidney beans, which I'd never seen in the dish before - it was simply amazing. For only 50 baht, you’d probably best to buy 2 or 3 at a time to save going back after you realise how delicious it is.
Our other favourite snack was spicy noodles with fresh coriander and crispy onion served in a bamboo leaf. That's what I love about Thai food, it's simple and packed full of flavour. This was only 10 baht for a decent portion - that's 24p!
 |
| My mouth was tingling a few hours after this |
Coffee
For coffee, you've got loads of nice places to choose from. |
| It's all I need |
Our favourites were:
- Khaotha Coffee
- Boomelicious Cafe
- Art in Chai
 |
| Inside Khaotha - it's a bit like a garage |
Boomelicious Cafe is a great little coffee spot too that's great for breakfast, especially the eggs benedict and muesli with fresh fruits. The coffee is really good too and reasonably priced.
 |
| Cute little biscuits to go with your coffee |
Restaurants
We went to a few good places, such as:- Om Garden Cafe -
- Baan Pizza
- Charlie and Lek's
- Blossom cafe
- Bom Bowels (do a yoga session and get 20 baht of a smoothie bowl)
I had a trio of dips (baba ganoush, tahini hummus, beetroot remoulade) with pita bread which was really flavoursome. This was 120 baht (£2.82). The shakes are also really tasty, although the banana and coconut with an espresso shot smoothie is something to behold.
We got a little ill one day, probably due to us finely relaxing, so we wanted some home comfort food. I ended up getting some takeaway pasta from Baan Pizza, and it was just what we needed. For only 120 baht (£2.82) you can get pasta arrabiata or just plain tomato sauce. The pizzas were decent too.
I’d highly recommend Charlie and Lek’s for a cheap lunch or dinner. You get really decent portions for only 40 to 80 baht a pop. They also do thai cooking classes if you wanted to try your hand at making some of the dishes yourself.
Blossom cafe is located a short walk over the river from town and boosts the best smoothie I have ever had. No joke. The coca and banana is simply to die for.
There’s also Bom Bowls next door that do smoothie bowls and yoga classes (200 baht for a drop-in session). Unfortunately, when I went the classes weren't on for 2 weeks - typical! I soon got over my disappointed by having one of their delicious smoothie bowls though.
 |
| Banana and peanut butter smoothie bowl |
Things to do
There’s an abundance of places to see around Pai, but we didn't end up doing any of them because we wanted a break from all the touristy things.You’ve got:
- Pai Canon - great at sunset
- the Historical bridge - dates back to WWII and has nice views of the river
- Pam Bok waterfall - good for a swim
- Long necked Karen village - it's exactly what it suggests, but I don't think they're all called Karen
- Big Buddha Pai - you can see this from town in the nearby mountain
I went to my first ever yoga class at Bodhi Tree Yoga. I messaged the place on Facebook to ask if any of their classes are good for beginners, and they responded promptly and suggested the morning alignment class for 250 baht (£5.88 for a 90 minute class).
The class didn't include loads of positions that made you tie yourself in a nots, which is what I imagined it to be. There was only 2 of us in the class too, so I didn't feel as embarrassed as I would in a larger class. This meant that I got a really great, personal experience from the teacher. It was all about really listening to your body and noticing your alignment and posture, and not taking things too far. Highly recommend this for beginners.
How much we spend
In Pai, you could go all out and have a nice meal at a restaurant or you could just go to the market and spend about £2 on dinner and get a few beers from 7-Eleven for nothing. That's the cool thing about Pai - it's anything you want it to be.Over the course of 6 days we spent:
- Accommodation: £56 for 6 nights
- Food and drink: £122 (we had a few nights on the beer)
Overall impressions
We liked it so much that we extended our stay for another 3 nights (sorry Chiang Rai, we'll visit one day) - says it all really.Chill, do some meditation, or just literally take a breather from life with a few beers with some fellow travellers.
Next stop: the Mekong River
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