Getting lost in Egmont National Park and Taranaki, New Zealand
We've been in Wellington nearly 3 months now and wanted to seek some adventure in our new little Nissan – so we looked at the map for the nearest volcano and out popped Mount Taranaki.
Mount Taranaki, also known as Mount Egmont, is in the region of Taranaki (go figure). Taranaki is slap bang in the middle of Auckland and Wellington on the west coast. The volcano itself is near the city of New Plymouth, which we wanted to check out too as we'd heard that it's very artsy and trendy.
The drive isn't so bad once you leave inner and outer Wellington, but coming from someone whose driven the horrors of motorways in the UK, it isn't exactly chocker like the M1. After about about 40 minutes to an hour, you merge onto State Highway 3 and that's it for the rest of the journey. That's one of many things I love about New Zealand, it's not complicated to get anywhere on the roads – you could probably get away with not having a map.
We passed through some cute little towns, such as Paraparaumu, where you can get the ferry over to Kapiti Island to see all the birdies, as well as Levin, Hawera and the city of Stratford which has a bit more going on. All towns have pretty much the same things – with one of everything you need – but most importantly: good coffee. You can't forsake a Kiwi from good coffee – or me for that matter.
As we approached Taranaki, I was looking at the map, then outside the window at the skyline, nothing – no sign of Mount Taranaki – but it was there, somewhere, as you could feel its presence. Then it suddenly darkened with this eerie atmosphere like you were in some Lord of Rings scene.
From left to right you saw fields of cows and sheep happily grazing, with some even eating vertically up a hill – I didn't even know that was possible. The scenes really epitomised New Zealand.
After 5 hours (not 4 and half), we finally reached our off the grid eco shed.
The eco shed was perched on top off the hill, with the selling point being the magnificent view of Mount Taranaki, which we still couldn't see as comically there was a massive cloud over it.
We decided to follow the signs for Dawson Falls Visitor centre and hope for the best. This was actually one of the easier treks compared to other walks you can do around here as you can actually do a full circuit of the volcano in the forest. The one we did was the Dawson Fall/Wilkies pool trek.
It was supposedly meant to be a 2 hour walk there, but we did it in an hour and a bit - must be fit, or the signs are wrong (most probably the latter). Also, we were not prepared at all for this kind of trek as we had Converses on, thin coats and about 2 inches of water - silly really, lesson learnt.
The trail was narrow, rocky and full of colours - it felt like you were the only one that had set foot there. With thick forest surrounding you in all shades of green and brown, together with the almost aluminous green carpet of mosh that covered the banks. You really are in the thick of it - it was spectacular.
It's only when the track reaches a clearing and the clouds part when you finally see how high up you actually are. You can see the towns below and the vastness of the mountain range around you.
About a quarter of the way through the trek, we started to hear the rushing of water coming from somewhere. As we turned a corner, we saw a beautiful 18ft waterfall from the top of one of the mountains. We had to meander our way around the small stream at the bottom of the waterfall, back onto the trail. It was all so beautiful.
The trek got increasingly wet, with most of the trail under about a 2cm of water. Still, we plowed on and eventually reached Wilkies Pools. The pools were formed from the lava from the volcano - which makes it nice for a warm dip. We didn't climb up the stream and rocks to the pools as we thought otherwise with our poor choice of footwear, unfortunately.
Finally, we reached Dawson Visitor Centre where we were so delighted to see a nice warm cafe that sold hot pies and tea - actual heaven when you're soaked to the bone.
You can carry on past the visitor centre to the actual Dawson Falls, or the world's oldest continuously operated generators - if you're that way inclined. Or if you're feeling brave and well prepared, then why not walk up Mount Taranaki. The sign on the visitor centre that said 86 people had died doing the trek since it opened kind of put me off if I'm honest.
The city of New Plymouth is know for its rocky, coastal walkway that stretch from Bell Block to Port Taranaki. It's also very arty, with the stunning reflective design of the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery that shows contemporary exhibitions and the famous Wind Wand that's a 45-metre tube of red fibreglass by artist Len Lye (it also lights up at night). Along with lots of street art littered through the city. There's also a New Plymouth Art Trail along North Taranaki you can do, too.
We grabbed a delicious lunch at Monica's Eatery that's a really cool, swanky cafe on the corner of Queen Street. The interior is really open, with really nice hanging baskets from the ceiling and wooden decking throughout. It had a really nice atmosphere, too.
I had a different kind of brunch: savoury granola (was a bit like Bombay mix), spinach, avocado, radish, sprouts, kimchi with a fried egg (or you can have scrambled tofu). It was so delicious, and a nice change from my usual avocado on toast with poached eggs. The coffee is roasted by Ozone - one of the best in New Zealand, well in my opinion - up there with Peoples.
All in all, a fabulous 2 day break from Wellington. It had it all: breathtaking views, amazing walks, good food and art. What more can you want! Highly recommend the Taranaki area, next time we hope to visit Lake Mangamahoe as apparently its got a magnificent view of Mount Taranaki - that's if there isn't any darn clouds!
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| In the thick of it in Egmont National Park |
Mount Taranaki, also known as Mount Egmont, is in the region of Taranaki (go figure). Taranaki is slap bang in the middle of Auckland and Wellington on the west coast. The volcano itself is near the city of New Plymouth, which we wanted to check out too as we'd heard that it's very artsy and trendy.
The journey from Wellington
It's a 4 and half hour drive (well, that's what Google told us) from Welly to Egmont Village – where we were staying for 2 nights. With the car all packed up, Fleetwood Mac on full whack, and a Peoples' coffee in tow – we set off on State Highway 1 out of Wellington.The drive isn't so bad once you leave inner and outer Wellington, but coming from someone whose driven the horrors of motorways in the UK, it isn't exactly chocker like the M1. After about about 40 minutes to an hour, you merge onto State Highway 3 and that's it for the rest of the journey. That's one of many things I love about New Zealand, it's not complicated to get anywhere on the roads – you could probably get away with not having a map.
We passed through some cute little towns, such as Paraparaumu, where you can get the ferry over to Kapiti Island to see all the birdies, as well as Levin, Hawera and the city of Stratford which has a bit more going on. All towns have pretty much the same things – with one of everything you need – but most importantly: good coffee. You can't forsake a Kiwi from good coffee – or me for that matter.
As we approached Taranaki, I was looking at the map, then outside the window at the skyline, nothing – no sign of Mount Taranaki – but it was there, somewhere, as you could feel its presence. Then it suddenly darkened with this eerie atmosphere like you were in some Lord of Rings scene.
From left to right you saw fields of cows and sheep happily grazing, with some even eating vertically up a hill – I didn't even know that was possible. The scenes really epitomised New Zealand.
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| The road to Taranaki - get lost clouds! |
After 5 hours (not 4 and half), we finally reached our off the grid eco shed.
Where we stayed
If your after something different from your average Air BnB, then why not go off the grid and stay in an eco shed? It's cheap and you're doing the world a favour as well as having a holiday.
Ours was located right near the town of Inglewood, which was another really cute and quaint New Zealand town that's got everything you need (and Ozone coffee!).
Ours was located right near the town of Inglewood, which was another really cute and quaint New Zealand town that's got everything you need (and Ozone coffee!).
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| You see that cloud on the left? That's where Mount Taranaki should be! |
The eco shed was perched on top off the hill, with the selling point being the magnificent view of Mount Taranaki, which we still couldn't see as comically there was a massive cloud over it.
The eco shed consisted of 4 wooden walls containing a bed and table; along with an outside kitchen that had a camping stove and all the kitchen utensils you'd need; and finally an outside loo that you had to throw saw dust down - yeap, totally off the grid. Not going to lie, the main selling point was the hot tub (obviously not off the grid) that was provided by the hosts who literally live the in the house behind the shed.
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| View from the hot tub when the clouds had finally left :) |
It's a beautiful little place if you want somewhere that has a stunning view in the middle of the beautiful lush green countryside with the towering presence of Mount Taranaki cutting through the landscape. A perfect setting to kick back and crack open a bottle of New Zealand wine.
Check it out on Air BnB.
Check it out on Air BnB.
Egmont National Park
We decided to head to Egmont National Park: the home of Mount Taranaki (supposedly, if the darn clouds would move so we could see it). The park is a spectacle of nature, with its vast, dense forest draped over the mountain range surrounding the epic volcano.
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The drive from Egmont Village was about 40 minutes, with 30 minutes of that going through the national park as it's massive! It's a beautiful drive though as you're boxed in by these massive lavishly green trees on either side of the road.
Finally, we arrived at what we assumed was a car park. At this point we had no idea where we were or how high we had driven - but the fact we were surrounded by the wet mist of the clouds gave us some indication.
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| Up in the clouds in Egmont National Park |
It was supposedly meant to be a 2 hour walk there, but we did it in an hour and a bit - must be fit, or the signs are wrong (most probably the latter). Also, we were not prepared at all for this kind of trek as we had Converses on, thin coats and about 2 inches of water - silly really, lesson learnt.
The trail was narrow, rocky and full of colours - it felt like you were the only one that had set foot there. With thick forest surrounding you in all shades of green and brown, together with the almost aluminous green carpet of mosh that covered the banks. You really are in the thick of it - it was spectacular.
It's only when the track reaches a clearing and the clouds part when you finally see how high up you actually are. You can see the towns below and the vastness of the mountain range around you.
About a quarter of the way through the trek, we started to hear the rushing of water coming from somewhere. As we turned a corner, we saw a beautiful 18ft waterfall from the top of one of the mountains. We had to meander our way around the small stream at the bottom of the waterfall, back onto the trail. It was all so beautiful.
The trek got increasingly wet, with most of the trail under about a 2cm of water. Still, we plowed on and eventually reached Wilkies Pools. The pools were formed from the lava from the volcano - which makes it nice for a warm dip. We didn't climb up the stream and rocks to the pools as we thought otherwise with our poor choice of footwear, unfortunately.
 |
| Swing Bridge near Wilkies Pools |
Finally, we reached Dawson Visitor Centre where we were so delighted to see a nice warm cafe that sold hot pies and tea - actual heaven when you're soaked to the bone.
 |
| Just what we needed: mince and cheese pie with a pot of tea at Dawson Falls |
You can carry on past the visitor centre to the actual Dawson Falls, or the world's oldest continuously operated generators - if you're that way inclined. Or if you're feeling brave and well prepared, then why not walk up Mount Taranaki. The sign on the visitor centre that said 86 people had died doing the trek since it opened kind of put me off if I'm honest.
New Plymouth
On the way home, we made a short stop in New Plymouth to check it out. |
| The Sugarloaf islands in the distance |
The city of New Plymouth is know for its rocky, coastal walkway that stretch from Bell Block to Port Taranaki. It's also very arty, with the stunning reflective design of the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery that shows contemporary exhibitions and the famous Wind Wand that's a 45-metre tube of red fibreglass by artist Len Lye (it also lights up at night). Along with lots of street art littered through the city. There's also a New Plymouth Art Trail along North Taranaki you can do, too.
 |
| Really cool street art around the city |
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| Admiring my own reflection in Govett-Brewster Art Gallery |
We grabbed a delicious lunch at Monica's Eatery that's a really cool, swanky cafe on the corner of Queen Street. The interior is really open, with really nice hanging baskets from the ceiling and wooden decking throughout. It had a really nice atmosphere, too.
I had a different kind of brunch: savoury granola (was a bit like Bombay mix), spinach, avocado, radish, sprouts, kimchi with a fried egg (or you can have scrambled tofu). It was so delicious, and a nice change from my usual avocado on toast with poached eggs. The coffee is roasted by Ozone - one of the best in New Zealand, well in my opinion - up there with Peoples.
 |
| Health kick brunch at Monica's Eatery |
All in all, a fabulous 2 day break from Wellington. It had it all: breathtaking views, amazing walks, good food and art. What more can you want! Highly recommend the Taranaki area, next time we hope to visit Lake Mangamahoe as apparently its got a magnificent view of Mount Taranaki - that's if there isn't any darn clouds!
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